Riding a spinning vortex of organized chaos
Time slows down for those
who can harness peace and awareness
in a fast and fluid blue womb of saltwater.
Journal Entry
When I wrote Part One back in late April, I had no idea I\’d be here in November, 8 months later on COVID19 \”lockdown\” still yet.
Even though I\’ve been on this rather tiny island, quite a lot has happened between the surf and work. To backtrack a bit, my relationship with this paradise isle began in July 2019. I visited for a 3 week stay to as I say, \”enroll in the school of barrel.\”
For as many years as I\’ve been surfing it was concerning to me that I\’ve yet to unlock the secrets of tube time. Granted, I\’ve spent many years living away from the ocean doing other stuff too.
Rider: Anko
I admit my envy for those with the fortune to have a childhood of surfing; when one\’s introduction to the world includes the organic reminder of their recent embryonic dream.
Upon contemplation I don\’t regret the many deep experiences I\’ve had in it\’s place at times. Truth be told, some of those experiences caused surfing to be rescuer from them.
Inner calm is the most practical survival skill. Our first necessity for life is oxygen. Panic causes the body to lose oxygen rapidly. Fear may be reasonable at times to encourage caution. Panicking is never beneficial to any situation, ever.
Rider: Kuda Ayya
Mystery Rider
Balance and temperament are crucial for an accurate perception of this ever-changing environment. Let not the state of being relaxed be expressed in laziness. Do not construe alertness to nail-biting anxiety. Be still, yet ready to go from zero to max velocity in split seconds. Maintain tenacious confidence to accelerate with a guided precision.
Learning a new spot is an awesome experience. At first, there are many unknowns regarding the ocean floor, the current, where to sit, and how to escape.
Mystery Rider
Check out the scene, take your time. Watch the ocean and study the waves from close and from afar. When embarking, grip the rocks, careful not to step on a loose stone, causing a damaging fall to body and board. For valuable lessons, observe the crab, a master of scurrying across slippery rocks.
Getting to know the subtleties and nuances of a new surf spot has great rewards. Build a relationship with the barnacles, boulders, reefs, currents, tides, and wind.
Besides being a strong swimmer, there is no equivalent boost to self-confidence than having a solid plan b. It’s crucial to know alternate routes for return to land under varying conditions and circumstances.
Rider: Anko
There is a multitude of hidden clues to discover when learning a new spot. The affair is increasingly enthralling as the mystery becomes a familiar mental map of a terrain unseen.
My path of learning how to ride the tube is a path to battle fear itself. There is, however, a clear method to the madness. From repetition comes the hard-earned secret to priceless rewards of timeless memories. Practicing the art of being at peace in the eye of a storm teaches me how to predict the unpredictable.
For centuries humans strive to command the sea yet are quickly lost in our original deep space frontier. Stretch limbs, eat smart, drink water, and check the equipment. After leaving the land, we will be at the mercy of creatures and elements far beyond our natural realm and comfort zone.
When we learn to walk, we’re taught to look both ways crossing the street. How can someone know what’s going on if they’re only looking one way?
Don’t take anything for granted.
Finally, it serves us wisely always to speak well, as we won’t know when that communication might be our famous last words.
Author & Photographer, Thirumoolar Devar, in the field doing research for \”An Intense Calm\”